Tumble

Coincidences. I was walking through mid-levels tonight, looking for somewhere for dinner. My new Gaziano Girling's came unstuck from the Hong Kong pavement and I was swiftly reacquainted with the floor.

When I got home I tumbled further - ethandesu.tumblr.com - so I can see who else is tumbling with me. I hope to see you there.

desu

Portraits - Takahiro Osaki

Portraits - Antonio Liverano

The La Vera Shoulder

Late Night Flight

I'm about to leave my temporary home in Sheung Wan for an 11pm flight to London, then on to Florence tomorrow afternoon. I hope I have everything I need.

I wont be online for the next seven days or so, but I hope to see some of you at the Pitti.

The Age

Another year older, another step closer to becoming Orson Welles.

Paneristi Pam 360

A friend came past with a great watch the other day - Panerai's Limited to 300 Paneristi model. I still think the California dial is the only Panerai I'd have myself, but this one is beautifully clean and understated.

Camaraderie

36oz

The 36 Ounce Twill from Drakes in a 7cm width. The combination of the weight of the silk and the quality of interlining make this tie drape and fall perfectly in my opinion.

Tie - Drakes for WWChan

Pochette - Drakes Irish Linen for The Armoury

300gram Linen Coat and Thomas Mason shirt both to order from P. Johnson

Caramel, Navy, Buttermilk Yellow

We are being interviewed for Hong Kong television tomorrow. I figure that warrants fresh shoes, hose, ties and pochette.

Carmina Alcudia Last 803's.

I've always admired the Carmina range, but tried them for the first time today. I'm converted.

Ties - Drakes and Drakes for WWChan.

Pochette all Drakes

All from the Armoury

Pedder Street

Day One on Pedder Street.

Drakes, Carmina, Gaziano Girling, La Vera… Too much temptation…

New Beginnings

Tomorrow is a big day - after six years I leave Herringbone for new shores and new opportunities. I have been blessed to have great colleagues, great customers and many challenges to sharpen my teeth upon.

Our relationships define us, challenges refine us and our decisions free us. I leave this chapter of my life confident that I have made more friends than I've lost, friends I hope will remain in my life even though our day to day has changed.

Onwards and upwards…

Pitti

Who is coming?

Samurai Jeans Rescue Dogs at Right Hand Distribution

On the 16th anniversary of the Great Hanshin Earthquake, Samurai Jeans has created the S0610LX-RR jean - a limited edition jean with a percentage of the profits going to charities that support disaster victims.

Based in Itami City in Hyogo, Nihon Rescue Kyoukai (Japan Rescue Association - www.japan-rescue.com) train rescue dogs to be sent to disaster zones all over the world, and therapy dogs for mentally and physically impaired people.

Using Texan cotton, already a fairly rough yarn, Samurai have treated this yarn to have a deliberately short staple and rough hand, so the cloth is particularly stiff. Dyed in pure indigo, they have the richest saturation of indigo dye possible.

This particular weave of stiff, pure Texan cotton gains rigidity and sturdiness with wear, tightening in the fibre to make a very robust denim. This is Samurai's most "kouha" denim yet - a true denim die hard cloth. The selvedge is the "Katana-Mimi" - Samurai's Sword Selvedge.

The cut is a classic proportion made low rise, the waist and hip are more close in proportions so that they fall straight from the hip, and the pockets are made shallow to accommodate. The back pockets are sewn in the "hitohudenui" style, with the arcuate in "kagemusha" style.

The leather patch is the S0610LX model - check the hakama on the samurai and you'll see the trend for low rise! The moon reflects the slim line by being in it's waxing, and the patch is heat stamped in Navy rather than Red to reflect the cool nature of this limited jean.

The buttons are in Iron, and the rivets are "Zenigata" model, shaped after the ancient coins of Japan. (Zenigata Heiiji was a favourite of my Grandfather in Law - so it has a soft spot in my heart too) They are stamped "Shogyou Mujou" - a Buddhist teaching that translates "Everything is evanescent".

In limited supply, these jeans will be available from Right Hand Distribution from next January-ish. Don't order a 38 though, they'll be for me.

Randy Andy's Denim Emporium and General Store

Tommy - P.Johnson

Sartorial Summer Etiquette from Daniel Hartley-Allen on Vimeo.

Tommy tearing it up in Melbourne. Suede Belgraves nicely scuffed, Rubinacci pochette adding colour, proportions spot on. Good job, Mr Riley.

http://www.danielhartleyallen.com/

PG for LS

Good to see some stores are taking advantage of the many well respected well dressed men out there, rather than going the normal route with perfectly ordinary models.

Polished - The Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Bousai Zukin

Random Japanese knowledge, courtesy of Mrs Desu.

In Japanese primary schools, all children are asked to bring a "Bousai Zukin" (literally protective headcloth) to school. Used as a cushion for your seat in class, it doubles as a mantle to protect your head in case of fire or earthquake. You can bet that when baby desu comes along, he'll have an awesome fire-proof worsted for Monday through Thursday, and a 15oz Kurabou denim for Fridays.

The Hutch

Caz has requested I change the colours of ethandesu to be more legible. I hope this fits the bill.

desu

Antiqued Chestnut - The Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Those that know me know I love leather - in all it's many forms, from reverse calf to cordovan, on shoes, jackets, small leather goods, furniture. I've also developed a penchant for caring for leather, whether it be the detailing and presentation of new leather or the restoration of old.

A pic of my Chestnut Belgraves that I had polished from new somehow turned up on ilikeitpreppy - I may have tweeted the image, I'm not sure - and I thought a progress shot of the same pair now that they have had some abuse and antiquing, polished and moisturised. Rather than go for a standard mid brown polish, I've tried to give these shoes more of an oxblood character by using burgundy wax. On a new shoe it gave it a cherry finish, light and shiny, as per the above image.

I'm a firm believer though that light leathers need to be nicked and scratched, then bulled into submission, so that the scratched in the leather take on more of the polish colour and give interest to the toe cap. With these Belgraves I have done just that - antiqued with black, polished with burgundy and finished with clear, in a continuing cycle of lustre.

I like the finish - I feel like I have a really well maintained pair of 20 year old shoes.