Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Foulard Silk

Increasingly, what is old is new again. The cycle of trend and fashion is ever turning, and after many years of heavy jacquard ties, I am more and more becoming enamored of the elegance of a foulard silk twill.

The richness of it's finish is somewhat intriguing - although it is matte and can appear dull next to a satin finish cloth, the richness inherent in the twill gives it an almost patinated antique look. Paired with a linen or crisp cotton poplin pochette, the textural difference is even more striking.

The softness of the weave gives foulard silk ties a gentle, insouciant feel when knotted - a perfect tie for Pratt or four in hand knots, with a small knot that seems to bite it's thumb at the big Windsor knots favoured by the investment set in the late 90's.

Amazing examples are available from Drake's this season, or my very own Herringbone, pictured below.

Friday, October 22, 2010

Ring Jacket

Mr Sasamoto and Mr Fukushima, Sales Manager and President respectively of Ring Jacket.

Ring Jacket are a manufacturer of off the rack and pattern order suiting based out of Osaka, Japan. I had the great priviledge of working with their product a few years back when we had our stock range made there, and the quality of product is exceptional. Meeting these two gents helped me to realise why.
The famous expression is "find a job you love, and you will never work a day on your life", and with Ring Jacket this is obviously the case. From their own suiting - a flannel db on Mr Fukushima, and a jacquard woven waistcoat and navy hopsack sports coat on Mr Sasamoto, these guys love their product. From collaborations with Evisu and Mastermind, they are also dipping into streetwear, bringing their know how and expertise to a younger audience.
So a trunk show in Sydney for the pattern order line? Who is interested?


Thursday, October 21, 2010

Tassels for Shoes

I had the great pleasure of finally meeting someone whose reputation has preceded him as a giant of passion and knowledge in shoes this week - Wallace from Tassels in Hong Kong. Although only a young man, his taste, knowledge and eye in shoes are second to none. If you are going to Hong Kong, visit this young man, for Alden, Bontoni, Crockett & Jones or Edward Green.

Shop B64-65
Basement, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong
2789 9911


The Armoury

I am sitting in Hong Kong airport, waiting for a flight some 7 hours away, fighting the losing battle with sleep.
I am/was in Hong Kong for a great reason though - some friends and passionate aficionados of tailored mens clothing are about to open a new store in Hong Kong - The Armoury.
A platform for some of the world's best brands, both in ready to wear and bespoke, The Armoury stocks brands such as Drake's, Gaziano Girling, Ring Jacket and WW Chan, to name a few.
Located in a beautiful space next to Shanghai Tang in the Pedder Building in Central, the space - designed by architect Katherine Wong - evokes the feel of an old library, with great hanging lamps, high shelves and sliding library ladders.

If you get to Hong Kong, this is a must see, even if just for the experience.

The Armoury -

Pedder Building
12 Pedder Street, 3rd Floor, Hong Kong
6690 0868

Katherine Wong

katherinewong at gmail dot com

Monday, October 11, 2010

Details - Cleverley for LeatherSoul via MostExerent

A incredible pair of shoes, the Cleverley range is made to Bespoke standards in an off the rack shoe. This pair of suede tassels is an incredibly elegant pair of shoes - the sort of refined casual wear I can only dream of, a style that would sit beautifully under a pair of linen trousers and a fine gauge knit polo, or with a junior navy twill suit, powder blue shirt and navy knit tie.

Another masterpiece of cordwainery available from Leather Soul Hawaii.

Cleverley Shoes at Leather Soul

Thanks to MostExerent for the loan.


Sunday, October 10, 2010


Some cordovan thats turned brown from burgundy, after many years of wear, exposure to sun, sand and salt water.

The Alden Norwegian Split Toe Blucher on the Aberdeen last in Colour 8 Shell.

Saturday, October 9, 2010


To inspire a friend who is considering his first pair of Aldens…

Alden for Leather Soul Plaza Last Semi Brogue in Colour 8 Cordovan. About a year of wear is giving them the patina that makes Colour 8 really shine.

Details - Military Vintage

Reed Manufacture "Bell" model L2-B - Buzz Ricksons
Dubow Manufacture Seal A-2 - The Real McCoys
USAF Orientation B-15C Mod. - Buzz Ricksons

There is something wonderfully utalitarian about vintage zips, tabs, studs and knits. Makers such as Talon, Conmar and Crwon made the most amazing pin-locked zips, that I can only seem to find on vintage or vintage replicas.

From Most Exerent


Care of Most Exerent

Friday, October 8, 2010

Meeting of Minds

A great meet - PapaNui, Desu, Phat Gee and Jay - Mentors, friends, like minded people.