Polished - The Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Bousai Zukin

Random Japanese knowledge, courtesy of Mrs Desu.

In Japanese primary schools, all children are asked to bring a "Bousai Zukin" (literally protective headcloth) to school. Used as a cushion for your seat in class, it doubles as a mantle to protect your head in case of fire or earthquake. You can bet that when baby desu comes along, he'll have an awesome fire-proof worsted for Monday through Thursday, and a 15oz Kurabou denim for Fridays.

The Hutch

Caz has requested I change the colours of ethandesu to be more legible. I hope this fits the bill.

desu

Antiqued Chestnut - The Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Those that know me know I love leather - in all it's many forms, from reverse calf to cordovan, on shoes, jackets, small leather goods, furniture. I've also developed a penchant for caring for leather, whether it be the detailing and presentation of new leather or the restoration of old.

A pic of my Chestnut Belgraves that I had polished from new somehow turned up on ilikeitpreppy - I may have tweeted the image, I'm not sure - and I thought a progress shot of the same pair now that they have had some abuse and antiquing, polished and moisturised. Rather than go for a standard mid brown polish, I've tried to give these shoes more of an oxblood character by using burgundy wax. On a new shoe it gave it a cherry finish, light and shiny, as per the above image.

I'm a firm believer though that light leathers need to be nicked and scratched, then bulled into submission, so that the scratched in the leather take on more of the polish colour and give interest to the toe cap. With these Belgraves I have done just that - antiqued with black, polished with burgundy and finished with clear, in a continuing cycle of lustre.

I like the finish - I feel like I have a really well maintained pair of 20 year old shoes.

Marine

Fortuitous Meetings

Recently my friends at P.Johnson met with my old friend Hiro at his store in Ginza. Below is taken from Hiro's daily blog at ginza-six

先日、私29歳にしてGreatなFriendsがまた新たにできました!!幾つになっても友人が増えるって事は嬉しい事です。写真に写っている彼らは、私のお師匠さんのGreat Friend達、シドニーとメルボルンで展開するテーラー屋(フルオーダー)、“P.Johnson”のMr.Patrick(L)&Mr.Thomas(R)です(Patrick Johnson = P.Johnson…彼のお店ですね)。

師匠からは4日前ぐらいに”Greatな友人が仕事で日本に行くから。その仕事が済み次第Hiroの店に行くんでお相手よろしくね。”といったやりとりをTwitter上にて(便利だよなぁ、Twitter)。そしてですね、先日実際彼らと会ったんですが…それはもうGentleでSophisticatedな2人。すっかり友達になっちゃいました。
“やっぱいいよなぁ、この感覚。言葉や文化、国籍、肌の色、背の高さ(写真参考)は違えど、一瞬にして心の距離を近づけられる、この”異文化”がコミュニケーションした瞬間。” そんな大げさな感覚でもないんですけど(笑)、でもなんか久しく味わっていない懐かしい感じがしました。
がっちり握手から数秒も経つともうお互い今日知り合ったようなテンションではないですからね。まだ6時だけどこのまま1杯行ってしまいそうな勢いでした(もちろん、行ってないですよ!!行きたかったですけど…)。

彼らは店内を見渡し一言…(日本語訳byme)
“いやぁ、とにかく店内の雰囲気がゆったりしていて、この空間いいねぇ。固すぎず緩すぎず。ディスプレイコンセプトも分かりやすいし!!”と。おいおい、初っ端から強烈な”よいしょ”とはなかなかやるな、何も出てきやしねぇぜ、旦那(笑)。でも素直に嬉しいですね。我々&Bスタッフが意図して実行している事(店造り)が伝わっているんだなぁということに(でもまだまだ改良点があるので急がなければ)。

そんな彼らが特に喰い付いたアイテムが…
只今絶賛好評のジャージ素材の”Shirt-JacketとR&BLUESの大見返し仕様(完全一枚仕立て)…”こういうものがオーダーでとんとこ作れる(縫える)って言うのがやっぱり凄い、工場生産技術が高いんだなぁ”とモノを見ながら2人で呟いていました。まぁ、彼らはほとんどがフルハンドなので大量生産とは無縁ですが、色々考えているみたいです、ビジネスを(笑)。
そしてふと私の方を見て、“僕ら、このジャージ素材のシャツジャケット作るよ!!豪州では買えないからね”と。そして、熟練テーラーの寸法を採る、彼らも自身の寸法を他のフィッターに採られる、”なんか不思議な気分だよ(笑)”と…as well as me。彼らがオーダーしたアイテムは、”鹿の子素材の4つ釦ダブル紺ジャケット”。袖口はあえて開け見せ状態にしておき、後から自分たちで開けると(本切羽状態)…なにやらこだわりがあるようで。出来上がりをお楽しみに!!

※上記写真で着用している服は、もちろん彼ら自身で作ったジャケット&パンツ。色んなこだわりを見せて頂きました!!

あっという間の1時間10分でしたが、素敵な交友関係をまたこの歳になって築けた事、気に入ってくれたアイテムを楽しくオーダーしてくれた事、会えた事の感謝をお互い言えた事、ただただ嬉しいばかりです!!
有形・無形のサービスに関係無く、”モノ・サービス”を介して誰かと繋がる(っている)事、モノがただ店から誰かへ移行するといったTransferringだけで終わらない相互関係がやっぱり私の理想ですよね。理想はあくまでも理想、だけど”理想”がないとあらゆる”事象”は現実のフローから維持or後退するしかないですからね(っと私は思っています)。
今後彼らとはメールのやりとり等で交友関係を深めていき、いつか彼らの豪州シドニー店orメボルン店へ赴き(本当に近日家族で行きたいです)、今度は私がお客として何かオーダーしたいものですね。
“Anyway,thank you for dropping by our shop, I spent a great time with you guys. Keep well and in touch, Cheers!! Hiro.Y”

※是非、お洒落な彼らのHPもご覧下さいませ!!
Cleck Here →　→　→“P.Johnson”

最後に、豪州テーラーをも唸らせた絶賛好評のオーダーのシャツ・ジャケット、そしてオーダー・シャツの“オプション・フェア”を只今好評開催中です!!シャツジャケットはオプションが3Free、シャツは5つまでFreeとなっています。かなりお得かと…気になられた方は是非一度お越し下さいませ。期間は11/24(Wed)まで、お見逃しなく!!

Old fashioned

In life we are fortunate if we can find like minded people that have either been where we've been, or will one day get there. Time spent, drinks downed, advice given - often this is more important than any education you might get.

If you meet a mentor, or a protoge, be generous - it'll serve you well.

PG via the M8

Pikka pikka

I recently showed a pair of C&J Alex's that I had polished for a young man who is about to get married. By chance, a good friend was also getting married, and I thought to gift him a pair of the same shoes would be a nice way of sayin sorry for not being able to attend his wedding.

I put a few coats on these shoes, but J has taken it to another level. Good job, J - wish I could be there to see them walk down the aisle.

http://thehalohaloproject.tumblr.com/

Monogram

My Randonnee from Louis Vuitton. I bought it in '98 or '99 I think. It travelled with me everywhere, and was my daily bag when I lived in Japan. It's been abused, worn through, painted on, written on, had beer bottles break inside it. I have a Sen to Chihiro keitai toy attached that is hanging on by the barest threads. Truly well travelled, and it looks all the better for it. A great contrast next to my newly polished C&J Cliffords.

Thanks to PG for the pic, craftily lifted from somewhere and posted by Ilikeitpreppy.

Facing hard decisions just lately...

desiderata - by max ehrmann

Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence.

As far as possible, without surrender, be on good terms with all persons. Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others, even to the dull and the ignorant, they too have their story. Avoid loud and aggressive persons, they are vexations to the spirit.

If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain and bitter; for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself. Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans. Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time.

Exercise caution in your business affairs, for the world is full of trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons strive for high ideals, and everywhere life is full of heroism. Be yourself. Especially, do not feign affection. Neither be cynical about love, for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment it is perennial as the grass.

Take kindly to the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the things of youth. Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune. But do not distress yourself with imaginings. Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness.

Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself. You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.

Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be, and whatever your labors and aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life, keep peace in your soul.

With all its sham, drudgery and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world.

Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

Max Ehrmann c.1920

Inspiration

True style starts young.

Photo, and style, from

Enzo in disguise

My Ride

De Rosa Giro D'Italia Art Deco Series

Tokyo Bike Sydney

Tokyo Bike - a Japanese Bike store in Sydney. My good friend Wing is there, and if he says it's the business, I am ready to believe him.

Tokyo Bike

1 Marys Place

Surry Hills NSW 2010

tokyobike.com.au

Relax

Ochre

Some amazing light in Sydney today….

On photo credits and reposting...

I'm sure this is a delicate subject for some, and an area of courtesy and etiquette where there is no real rule book, but I thought it worth my while to post my thoughts and maybe stir up some debate.
As someone who predominately uses original content, I feel quite proud of the development in my photography and content. As someone who works in the clothing industry, the images I present, and what I try to convey online is an extension of my professional persona. To have that usurped without credit can be incredibly frustrating, especially when there are people out there seeing my images and wanting to know more.

I like the wave of reblog rolls out there, particularly on tumblr. Speaking to my good friend mostexerent, he said something pertinent - it is amazing how refined an eye some of these bloggers have. They are sorting through everything the web has to offer, eschewing the dross and presenting the gems, beautifully curated. But as someone working at getting original content up - please show some respect and offer credits.

Shades - Most Exerent

PG's supremely sharp vintage Ray Ban aviators.

Patrick Johnson

"Praise from Caesar is praise indeed" is a favourite expression of mine, so anyone who comes recommended by the god of ties - Mr Michael Drake - is someone I want to meet. And today I did.

Patrick Johnson is an Adelaide born Sydneysider, by way of London and Holland. A tailor by way of wine making, and a fantastic guy by way of his general being. Operating out of Paddington in Sydney and another store in Melbourne, Mr Johnson is passionate about men's clothing, and shares my belief in educating the next generation of stylish and classically dressed young men with product that is accessable and service that is never pushy.

Ranging from $1500 and up, Mr Johnson's Made to Order suits are available with all the bells and whistles to keep the younger generation excited, but all the fit and classicism to give them something their boss will admire. Shoulders are light but still have a sense of regality, the quarters closed enough to ignore trends, and the overall feel a perfect blend of Sydney and Lago di Como.

Patrick Johnson

www.pjohnson.com.au

Chewie

Chewie's ability to mix patterns amazes me.

Summer

It's all about fresh fruit.

Polished - The Crockett & Jones Alex

A version of a wholecut made on the 348 Last - Crockett & Jones' longest and most Italianate last - the Alex is much like the Edgware, but pared back to it's cleanest and most elegant line.

This pair was specially ordered by a young gent getting married in a fortnight, and I figured a polish is the least I could do to have them dinner suit ready. Along with a bespoke square end bow tie I produced, I really feel that I have invested some effort into making sure he looks the part on his big day. And there is something extremely satisfying about that.

Lives of quiet desperation

"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. I did not wish to live what was not life, living is so dear; nor did I wish to practice resignation, unless it was quite necessary. I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life…"

Henry David Throeau

Value

My old pair of C&J Audleys - looking the business still after many years.

Being an avid reader of the exploits of my friend over at mostexerent, I am struck by how often the issue of value vs price comes into play, and agree fully with PG's succinct explanation of it;

"There really is no cheaper alternative. You get what you pay for. "

Pg hits the nail on the head here for me in an issue that I think more and more defines the sort of peron you are - living within your means is the most liberating stance you can take in the evolution of your style, but to live within your means doesnt mean settling for what is cheapest, it means having less but having better. A single great cigar, once a month, with one great meal is better than a hundred cheap smokes. Likewise with clothing, to be "cheap" often does you more disservice in the way you treat your own things. If you have two great pairs of shoes and three well cut suits, all of which you treat with something like reverence for the joy they bring you to wear, you will always look sharp.

So, for myself at least, after many years dealing with all things classic menswear, I have come to this conclusion - cheap is always just cheap. Less, but better, is the path of the quality man.